Design Play – Introduction

Hiya, all. We are starting a new class. Today we begin playing with design. I am going to share some of the things I’ve observed, some things I’ve been taught myself, and some things I’ve learned all by myself.

We will be discussing colour and texture. And we will be discussing shapes and spaces. There will be exercises to help unblock ‘designer’s block’ – you know, the same as writer’s block only relating to design.

By the end of this class, made up of however many lessons are needed, you should be able to draw on your own imagination and apply some rules to it and be left with a reasonable piece, ready to be worked.

These lessons can be used no matter what your milieu. They are  equally useful to needlework and to beading, to fashion design and interior decoration, to anything at all.

Questions? Comments? Please add your observations to this set of lessons: it helps make the classes more interesting.

That’s it for now –    … Helene …

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Niki.Tasha – Lesson 12 – Circular Peyote – Inside and Outside

Hiya, Niki.  This lesson is about putting a round bottom on your amulet bag.  Later you may decide to make a round top as well.  Regardless whether or not you make a round top, it’s a good idea to learn the circular technique from the inside out and the outside in.  I have taken some beading classes, taught some beading classes, read many articles and followed many instructions by other beading artists and I have never seen instructions for working the circular Peyote from the outside edge to the centre.  Once again, then, I am adding my own interpretation to the Peyote Techniques.

Remove the stop bead from the long tail kept from the beginning of this class.  Thread your needle and follow the steps below.

Circular Peyote From the Outside IN

 

Now you will be working with every bead and not fitting beads into the gaps between the ‘teeth.’ 

 

Row 1:  Pick up 2 beads, skip 1 ‘tooth’ and run the working thread through the next ‘tooth’.  Continue until you return to where you started.  Slip the working thread through the last bead from the previous round and the 1st pair of the current row.  It is the step up needed to start the next row.

 

Row 2:  Pick up 1 bead and run the working thread through the next 2 beads from Row 1.  Continue putting 1 bead between each group of 2 from the previous row until you reach the beginning.  Perform the step up:  the last bead from the previous row and the first bead of the current row.

 

Row 3:  Pick up 1 bead and run the working thread through the 1st  bead of the previous round.  Continue until you reach the beginning.  Perform the step up.

 

Row 4:  Pick up 1 bead and run the working thread through the 1st 2 beads of the previous round.  Perform the step up.

 

Repeat Rows 3 and 4, curling around and decreasing in size until you have only 3 beads on your thread.  Run the working thread through these 3 remaining beads a couple of times then tie off the thread with a discreet knot and work the thread through several beads and rows until you feel sure the thread will not work its way free. 

 You will probably need to add thread to this bottom bit.  Tying off and starting a new thread in Circular Peyote is no different than for Flat Even Count Peyote or Even Count Tubular Peyote.  Pull the thread through several beads, switch back several times until you are confident the thread will not work itself loose.  You may put discreet knots in the tying off and tying on processes. 

 

It is usual to work Circular Peyote from the inside out.  The beads coil around a central 3 or 5 beads.

 Circular Peyote From the Inside OuT

 Row 1:  String 3 beads and tie in a discreet knot.  The tail should be about 6 inches long.  The working thread goes through the bead closest to the knot. 

 

Row 2: Add 2 beads, pick up the next bead of the 3 original beads.  Add 2 beads and pick up the next bead on the original row.  Add 2 beads and slip the working thread through the next bead of the original 3 bead row.  You should be back where you started.  Slip your needle through the 1st bead of the 2nd row.  You are now ready to work the 3rd row.

 

Row 3:  Pick up 1 bead on your working thread and run your needle through the next bead on the 2nd row.  Add 1 bead and run the needle through the next bead on the 2nd row.  Continue until you reach the last bead on row 2.  The needle goes through it and through the 1st bead on row 3.

 

Row 4:  The same as Row 2:  placing 2 beads between each bead of the previous row.

 

Row 5:  As for row 3:  placing a single bead between each bead of the previous row.

 

Rows 4 and 5 continue to be repeated until the size for the piece of beadwork is reached. 

 

As you continue going around there will be gaps that are rather too large between the beads.  Add 3 beads between the previous row’s bead, instead of 2, to correct this. 

 

 If this piece is the bottom of a vessel of some sort, when you reach the desired size of the bottom, stop adding beads and continue upward either with the even count tubular peyote, the odd count tubular peyote, or some other technique altogether.

 You will probably need to add thread to this bottom bit.  Tying off and starting a new thread in Circular Peyote is no different than for Flat Even Count Peyote or Even Count Tubular Peyote.  Pull the thread through several beads, switch back several times until you are confident the thread will not work itself loose.  You may put discreet knots in the tying off and tying on processes. 

peyote-circular-diagrams

Copyright © 2008 Helene Turnbull All rights reserved.  No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means – graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping or information storage and retrieval systems – without written permission of the author.